Venice  

the city of canals, gondolas, and timeless romance, is a place that defies reality. Emerging like a mirage, my first thought was that I had entered some sort of alternate reality. From the moment I stepped out of my vaporetto onto the streets of Venice I knew this was going to be a visit unlike anything else I’d experienced.

One of the first things I became aware of was that Venice seems to move at its own pace. A city  where the past mingles effortlessly with the present, where gondolas glide along the same canals that once welcomed Casanova, where the echoes of Vivaldi’s compositions still resonate in historic concert halls.

I first wanted to visit the sites we’ve all read about. I did and they didn’t disappoint. The Piazza San Marco is an architectural masterpiece and at times I felt as if I was in the famous Canaletto painting. St. Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace were great stops, the only draw back to all three was that everywhere I looked, at each turn, lots of tourists. If I had the time, I would have been up early in the morning to see the city as it awakens and prepares for the onslaught. But even with the crowds, it was an incredible.

Dining and Drinking

Friends had told me my first stop should be Al Vecio Marangon in the Dorsoduro neighborhood, so off. I went. To being with, I really liked this area. It’s unpretentious and authentic full of casual bars, bakeries and local shops. I had lunch that started with a caprese salad that tasted and looked nothing like the cut tomatoes and sliced cheese I’m used to stateside. Next up was an incredible lasagne with a glass of house red wine. A perfect (and reasonably priced lunch).

While at Al Vecio I chatted with a lovely local couple. We spoke about our travels and how for me, the real joy comes from local experiences, especially dining. They suggested I take the walk to the the most norther neighborhood of Venice, Cannareggio and try one of their favorite restaurants, Trattoria da’a Marisa. The next evening I took the walk (not bad at all) arriving to a gem of a restaurant with nearly all customers being locals. A very good sigh. Seafood is the star here and from the appetizer of calamari to my main course of sea bass, each dish was a delight. They offer a set menu and it’s a good idea to book a table in advance.

Venice is famous for its bacari (wine bars) and I wasn’t going to miss out on that! I’m a history nerd, so I had to make an obligatory visit to Cantina Do Mori, founded in 1462 before finding my own bacari.

Cantine del Vino is a wine shop (also in the great Dosorduro neighborhood) that is popular with locals and visitors. They have a great selection of wine and spirits to take with you, but my favorite part of the visit was having a glass of local red while standing at the bar. And if it gets a bit crowded inside, just step out to the little bridge and to enjoy.

A small wine bar, Stappo, is outstanding and quite unique. Its focus is on sustainability, authenticity, and local, raw materials. The wine here has an extensive collection of artisan, organic and natural labels with a menu to highlighting products from local sources.

Always on the hunt to satisfy my sweet tooth, I hit the motherload when I entered Pasticceria dal Mas. Showcases of delicious baked goods – and homemade chocolate, are everywhere. I took a selection of Venetian cookies (I couldn’t choose just one) along with a cannoli and café. Heaven.

There are many places to enjoy the sunset in Venice. Some inexpensive. Some pricey. If you’re looking to have that one, magical moment, then it’s cocktails (and dinner?) at Restaurant Terrazza Danieli. Steps from St Mark’s Square, this is one of the city’s most romantic spots with a view you’ll never forget.

Sightseeing

You already know Murano, home to the famous Venetian glass making. But do you know Burano? I love this little island. It’s just 45 minutes by water taxi and is a charming island dotted with colorful houses, small shops and cafes and home to quite an interesting lace making museum. You don’t need a tour here. Just stroll, discover, and enjoy.

If you’re looking for a truly unique museum experience, make sure to visit the Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo – a museum dedicated to textiles, costumes and perfume. Housed in a 17^th century building, you can visit dozens of rooms open to the public which offer the chance to view art, furniture, clothing and an incredible six rooms dedicated to Venetian perfume making and history.

Origninally built in 1253, and rebuilt in the 16^th century with a façade completed by none other than Andrea Palladio, and with one of the tallest bell towers in the city, you’d think that San Francesco della Vigna would be a tourist magnet. But think again. When I visited, there were only a handful of people visiting, which was fine with me. I was able to enjoy the solitude while taking in the architecture and frescos, all in quiet peace. The church is still a working monastery, so a code of silence is enforced.

Take a gondola ride, sure, why not. But my quest was to visit the 17^th century Squero San Trovaso, the oldest gondola workshop in the city. The boatyard is incredible with some of the most breath taking gondolas you’ll ever see sailing by. They offer tours of the workshop, but you can stop by and watch from a distance. This is stop is one of a kind and something great if you’re traveling with kids.

Where to Stay

Many travelers have a favorite hotel or at least a favorite hotel type or style. And while I’m fortunate to stay in everything from five star luxury properties to charming inns, my personal choice is always a stylish boutique hotel. And in Venice, it’s the Palazzo Barbarigo. Sitting on the Grand Canal, the hotel has combined its 16^th century past with modern and elegant touches. And with only 18 rooms, each guest is guaranteed to receive the hotels famous attention and service.

For those looking for a full on five star experience, the Hotel Danieli is my choice. Another exceptional location, just steps from St. Mark’s and right on the Venetian Lagoon, there are few hotels in the city that retain a truly Venetian vibe and carry forward it’s history beautifully.

Ca’Sagredo has a tag line that describes itself as “A private palazzo, a noble residence, a museum, a hotel and so much more” and it’s spot on. This 15^th century palace is on the list of National Monuments and preserves much of its history and glamour.  42 rooms, a bar , restaurant and terrace café make this one of “the” places to stay in Venice. And a walk up the magnificent marble staircase will have you feeling like royalty.

Back to the Dorsoduro neighborhood, which is home to the 4 star Hotel Moresco. The hotel has a blend of design elements which make it quite interesting. The location is great, breakfast delicious and a stay here won’t sacrifice quality or break the bank.

Shopping

One of Venice’s hidden (or not so hidden) treasures is The Merchant of Venice store – Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro. Perfumes for men and women, this historic and beautiful shop offers some of the unique scents on the planet. The store on Campo San Fantin has been a pharmacy since 1600 and is now the flagship location for the brand. This is one stop you don’t want to miss.

If you’re traveling with kids, or shopping for them, you’ll find some amazing handcrafted items at Signor Blum. There’s a lot to choose from, but I especially like their wonderful wooden puzzles that will remain a treasure well after childhood.

A visit to the Mercatino dell’Antiquaritao Campo San Maurizio was a highlight of my trip. Vendors sell everything you could imagine you’d find at an antique market from prints to books, ceramics, china, clothing and lots more. Even if you’re not a shopper you’ll enjoy this visit and if you are, you’re sure to find a truly unique memento of your trip to Venice.

visit to the Mercatino dell’Antiquaritao Campo San Maurizio was a highlight of my trip. Vendors sell everything you could imagine you’d find at an antique market from prints to books, ceramics, china, clothing and lots more. Even if you’re not a shopper you’ll enjoy this visit and if you are, you’re sure to find a truly unique memento of your trip to Venice.

Masks, masks everywhere! Finding a traditional Venetian carnival mask isn’t hard. They are everywhere. However, finding an authentic, traditionally made, high quality mask is another matter. It took me quite a bit of time and detective work, but I hit the jackpot. San Marco 596 is home to master craftsman Giorgio and Nicolo who not only sell masks, which are works of art, but also offer classes where you can custom design your very own..