Where Every Moment Becomes a Fiesta!

Europe Travel Guide To Madrid

It’s a complicated city with a complicated past. And for many, it’s one of the great truly undiscovered cities of Europe with much more to see than the Prado Museum (although it’s spectacular).

Unlike Paris or London, where we’re not only familiar with the city name, but with the names of its neighborhoods, Madrid is simply, Madrid. During my most recent visit, I wanted to explore Madrid, get to know its people and neighborhoods and experience the city as a whole, not as a one or two night stopover.  And wherever I can, I’ll mention the neighborhood. Who knows, maybe they will become as famous as Chelsea or Le Marais?

 Having been to Madrid before, I still wanted to get reacquainted with the layout of the city, so I took an Eco Tuk Tuk city tour. In two hours, I saw the Royal Palace, Market of San Miguel, the Cervantes House, Parliament, El Retiro Park and Palace, the Bank of Spain and many of the most famous, must see sites in the city. It’s a perfect way to get a first (or in my case third or fourth) impression of the city and plan your itinerary. For me, it was time to explore. 

Dining and Drinking

 If there’s one way to get to know Madrid, it’s through food. Aperitivos, tapas, the Spanish really love to eat and they celebrate their culture though amazing culinary expressions. I wanted to start my culinary journey with a straight forward drink and bite to eat and Bar Trafalgar hit the spot. Located in the Chamberi district, Bar Trafalgar has two things I love – great food and locals.

I had a terrific burger and a cold beer and what should have been a brief stop for a bite turned into a two hour stay where I chatted with the bartenders and customers and left feeling that I had just had more of an authentic Madrid experience than I had in all my previous visits.

 Learning as I go, I was told that to eat like a local, I would have to try the best cocido madrileno (chickpea stew) in all of Madrid at La Bola just next to the Sabatini Gardens. It was clear from the moment I arrived that this place was special. The family has been serving this specialty since the 19^th century and while a bit crowded, I came to understand why. That stew alone is worth the plane ride to Madrid!

 When I learned that Bodega de la Ardosa had been serving locals since 1892, I quickly visited the Malasana district for a visit. I had their famous Spanish omelet and with their equally famous on tap vermouth and by the end of the meal it was hard to decide (or remember?) which was better, the food of the drink?!

 I was very fortunate to get a reservation at the elegant Casa Lucio, in the La Latina neighborhood.  The food menu is extensive, and it was honestly hard to choose. Being with a friend, we decided upon the two person beef churrasco and our kind server recommended a wonderful red wine from Castilla y Leon. Casa Lucio is a world class dining experience and if you’re looking for one, special evening, this is the place. Don’t forget to book your table in advance.

 If you do a lot of research before you travel, you might pick up on the same names and same places being repeated. Often, that’s because of their public relations department, social media feed or celebrity connection. However, every once in a while you will find a spot that is recommended time and time again because of its quality and reputation. That’s the case with Chocolateria San Gines , located right in the middle of Puerta del Sol and the Teatro Real. They offer delicious cakes and cookies, coffee and soft drinks but the star here is churros with chocolate – the very best in Madrid.   

 High above the city is one of the best roof top venues in all of Madrid and with the best views, 360 Roof Top Bar at the Riu Hotel on Maestro Guerrero. There a plenty of great rooftop bars in the city, but none offer a complete view of Madrid, this one complete with a glass balcony! I went just as the sun was setting and it was magical.

 Sightseeing

 I’ve had my fill of “themed” dinner shows so much so that when a colleague said she was taking me to a flamenco show, I hesitated. She assured me this was legit, the real deal and so, dragging my feet a bit, I went. And I’m so glad I did! Tablao Flamenco, in the heart of the city next to Plaza Mayor, is a legendary dance hall, where traditional flamenco dancers pour their heart and soul into their craft. I can’t quite put into words how breathtaking their artistry is. The best way to find out, is too book your reservation and visit yourself.

 You can see the works of the great artist Goya in many places, including , of course, the Prado. But my suggestion is to see his awe inspiring dome frescos at the chapel of San Antonio de la Florida. Seeing his work outside of a museum, gives the art context and one marvels at how he was able to manage such a creation. The chapel also happens to be the artists final resting place, adding to the special aura of the chapel .

 A great spot to visit, that most visitors miss, is Madrid’s Enchanted Garden “Bosque Encantado”
Located in San Martin de Valdeiglesias , this is a perfect half day journey from the city. And kids will love it. A botanical garden with hundreds of species, it’s most famous for the incredible plant sculptures ranging from elephants and giraffes to dragons and ballet dancers.

 A small but impressive museum, the Museo de Historia de Madrid highlights the history of the city from 1561 to the present. They have a great collection of art, porcelain, maps, weapons, and furniture that provide insight into the history of the city. It’s housed in one of Madrid’s most beautiful baroque buildings, which on its own is worth a visit.

 One of my all time travel highlights was visiting the Monasterio Del Corpus Christi, near Plaza Mayor. Home to cloistered nuns since 1607, the nuns are famous not only for their devotion, but also for their famous cookies! Being cloistered, the nuns are forbidden to have contact with the outside world. So in order to visit and buy these heavenly treats (get it?) you ring the doorbell that reads “Monjas.” Ask “tienes dulces hoy?” (do you have sweets today?). If the nuns have been baking, you’ll be buzzed in and you follow the hallway until you reach the turntable. There will be a menu offering the baked goods. You simply put your money (bring cash) on the turntable and spin. The nun on the other side will then replace your money with their delicious baked goods.

 The Royal Tapestry Factory had been the leader in tapestry product and restoration since 1721. While many people may be familiar with these incredible pieces of art, few get to see how they are made and cared for up close. A visit to The Royal Tapestry Factory includes viewing some of the most historic tapestries but also a unique opportunity to visit the workshops and view the work of the artisans. Access is very limited, but they do welcome visitors. Visit the website for details on how to request tickets and try to do it as far in advance as possible.

 Where to Stay

There’s nothing that can quite equal a stay at the Heritage Hotel Madrid. This historic and elegant boutique hotel is in the most upscale neighborhood in the city, Salamanca, offering a perfect base from which to explore the city.  46 beautifully appointed rooms, including some of the best family rooms in the city along with a charming terrace bar and Haroma Restaurant by world famous chef Mario Sandoval, the hotel is a gem for those who want the very best.

 I visited Only You Boutique Hotel and at once could see why it’s so popular. A 19^th century mansion in the trendy Salesas neighborhood, the moment you enter the lobby, you know you’re someplace special. Two standouts here. The Thai Room Wellness, with a team of Thai masseurs and Padrino Cocktail Bar, one of the best in town. Even if you’re not staying here, stop in for a drink.

 The Dear Hotel, in Madrid Centro, is unique on many levels. Firstly, it’s fully committed to sustainability. Filtered water with no carbon footprint, no single use plastic packaging, refillable amenities bottles in the shower and bath and sourcing product from local farms are all cornerstones of the hotels philosophy. Another unique feature is their “Nice to Meet You” rooftop lounge and an incredible sky pool. 

 Another property I really like is H10 Villa de la Reina. Located right in the middle of Gran Via, the hotel is affordable, without sacrificing on comfort and quality. The rooms vary in size and price, but all are well designed and appointed, there’s a great restaurant and bar and the team is warm and welcoming.  

Shopping

One of the great shopping experiences is a visit to Capas Sesena, on Calle de la Cruz, home to the most famous – and beautiful capes in the world. Since 1901, these handmade capes have been worn by some of the most famous people of their generations including Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso (who wanted to be buried in his Sesena cape), Catherine Deneuve, Marcello Mastroianni, Hillary Clinton and even the Boss, Bruce Springsteen. While I didn’t purchase a cape this visit… #capegoals

 There are lots of great markets in Madrid, but my personal favorite takes place on Sundays. El Rastro, Calle de la Ribera de Curtidores, daetes back to the Middle Ages and has everything one would think of for a street market. Food, clothing, art, antiques and so much more. And what I like best is that it’s popular with locals as well, making the experience less touristy and much more authentic.

 Another must visit shop is Casa de Diego, in Puerta del Sol, where handmade fans and umbrellas have been made since 1823. They have a huge selection to choose from and best of all, there’s something for just about everyone’s budget. And what a wonderful souvenir!

 Located on Calle de Toledo, is a Casa Hernanz, home to the finest, handcrafted espadrilles in all of Spain. I don’t usually shop for or blog about clothing and shoes, but these are special. Stepping back in time, you immediately feel the history of this small shop, where to this day, the family Hernanz continues the tradition started back in the 18^th century.

 On Carrerea de S. Jeronimo, near Puerta del Sol is one of my go to places in Madrid. Always on the search for something sweet, Casa Mira had been making traditional turron since 1855. It’s one of the finest of all Madrid’s shops and if turron is not your thing, don’t worry, they offer plenty of other high quality treats, all made using traditional methods.