Croissants, Culture, and Charm

Paris

When writing about Paris, it’s hard to stay away from cliches. And that’s because so many of them are true; the most beautiful city in the world, the most romantic city, the city of light, fashion capital of the world, city of love and many more.  But what makes Paris so special for me, is that no matter how many times I visit, each journey differs from the previous ones. This is the real magic of Paris.

Few places on earth are home to as many famous monuments as Paris. The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame de Paris, the Arc de Triomphe, the Louvre, Musee d’Orsay, the Seine, Place Vendome, and that’s without naming the famed boulevards, gardens, squares, bridges, and neighborhoods. To really see Paris, one must walk the city, become a flaneur (a walker or stroller) who walks, often without a goal, to explore and experience the city at is reveals itself to you. 

Dining and Drinking:

To say there is great food and cocktails everywhere in Paris is a true understatement. From haute cuisine to crepes on the street, from champagne to a simple glass of wine, Paris stands alone.

Let’s start with one of my favorites, whose name says it all. Pain, Vin, Fromage (bread, wine, cheese), located in the heart of Le Marias, this charming spot “feels” like you’re in Paris. As the name so boldly states, they focus on the three French staples, and they do them all beautifully.

There are great restaurants in the Eiffel Tower, but for me, the view of the amazing landmark is as important as the meal, so I chose to dine outside of the tower. The Café du Trocadero has a beautiful belle epoque inspired setting and a menu that is wonderful for lunch, dinner or a café and tarte citron.

A friend suggested dinner at Chez Julien and she guaranteed this is one of the prettiest and best hidden secrets in the city. My advice? Listen to your friends! I asked my friend to join me and off we went. Before my meal I started with a French version of the spritz, which was perfect. We decided to share a plate of angus beef (prepared for two) with truffle sauce. Ending the meal was a simple, yet magnificent crème brulee made with bourbon. If you’re looking for “that” meal, “this” visit Chez Julien.

It’s easy to turn up your nose at the most famous (and touristy) spots in any city. But in Paris, many are famous for a reason. A personal favorite is the historic Les Deux Magots. Sure, it beautiful. Yes, it’s been around forever (150 years and counting) and yes, it was the hangout for Apollinaire, Gide, Hemingway, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Camus, Picasso and, well you get the idea. But for me, the reason I make the pilgrimage is simple – the finest croque madame in Paris, accompanied by a delicious martini.

If you like gin, and who doesn’t, Tiger is the first bar in Paris dedicated to gin. With over 100 gins, 13 signature cocktails and what they boast of 1040 cocktail combinations, a stop here is a treat. They are open from 530PM Monday to Saturday and feature a “gin of the week” which is a special treat.

To refer to Bar Les Ambassadeurs a “another bar”, does not do it justice. In the breathtaking Hotel de Crillion, Les Ambassadeurs is “the” place in Paris to enjoy a drink and feel like royalty (and you may see a royal or two in person)! Elegant and chic with a frescoed ceiling and gilded moldings, and a view of the Place de la Concorde that won’t quit, a visit here transports you to another place and time. Just keep in mind, this is one of the most upscale spots in all of Europe, cocktails can run 29euro, well worth it for the experience.

Located in Montmartre, Le Poulbot is intimate and cozy. They offer traditional French dishes, a solid wine list and great dessert menu. But the reason people travel from all over the city to dine here, is the best soupe a l’oignon in Paris. Due to its popularity, and great service, a reservation is a must.

Sightseeing:

Paris is one of the great walking cities of the world. You’ll want to explore, get lost and discover. But first things first. 

There are a lot of bus tours in Paris. And while they do the trick for some and work well for trips out of the city, I suggest you stay as far away from these tours as possible. If you’re looking to see the sites of the city, at a leisurely pace, take one of the many cruises on the Seine. Bateaux Parisian and Bateaux Mouches both offer great experiences, and you’ll see the city from the best possible vantage point.

FreeTour (yes, free!) offer the best, free walking tours in the city. From the historic Left Bank to the trendy Marias and even the Sewers of Paris, the guides are wonderful and the tours well planned. A suggested tip of about $15.00 is suggested, but it’s up to you.

The original burial place for King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, the Chapelle Expiatoire (formerly the Madeline Cemetery), is a true hidden gem, often overlooked by visitors. The chapel houses two marble sculptures of the King and Queen along with an altar built over the spot where their remains were located.

Visitors rightly flock to the Louvre and Musee d’Orsay. But for a more intimate connection with fine art, visit the Petit Palais. Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition, the museum is home to a significant collection of decorative murals and sculptures, created in the early 1900’s as well as ancient art from the classical world and art from the Renaissance and the 17^th and 18^th centuries.

If you’re planning on visiting Pere Lachaise Cemetery, I encourage you to also visit the smaller, but still impressive Montmartre Cemetery, the final resting place of Nijinsky, Dalida, Emile Zola, Degas, Apollinaire and Berlioz and like Pere Lachaise, the grounds feel like an outdoor sculpture garden, albeit in a unique setting.

Paris is one of the great church cities of Europe. Of course, you’ll visit Notre Dame de Paris, but make time to visit two more. The first, Sainte Chapelle. Unique in the world, with over 1,00 stained glass windows, the space is mesmerizing. With construction dating to 1238, the history and beauty of this royal chapel is simply staggering. The second church that deserves a visit is Saint Eustache. Siting in the heart of Les Marais, the church dates from 1512 and is an architect’s delight with multiple design styles from gothic to classical. The church is also home to the largest pipe organ in France and on Sunday afternoons there’s a free concert by its resident organist.

Where to Stay:

 Over the years, I’ve been fortunate to stay in many of the many of the finest hotels in Paris; The Ritz, Georges V, Plaza Athenee, Prince de Galles and many more. I’ve also had the luck to experience some of the smaller, but still incredible hotels such as Hotel d’Aubusson, Relais Christine and Le Pavillon de la Reine. Here are some newer favorites that I’ve added, or shall add to my list: 

One of the most elegant hotels, in any city, anywhere is Cheval Blanc Paris. Located in one of the most beautiful locations in the city, on the quai de Louvre at the Pont Neuf, the hotel sits in the heart of Paris, between Le Louvre and Le Maris. The perfect location.  What separates this hotel from the other five star hotels in the city, is the design. This hotel doesn’t scream or yell at you. Instead of 5 story flower arrangements with music and lights, you enter the hotel and immediately take a breath. The calm, refined elegance immediately takes over and you realize you’ve entered a new realm of hotel. Personal highlights include Le Jardin de Cheval Blanc, the rooftop terrace (open each year until Sept. 15) and the incredible swimming pool, complete with handcrafted mosaics designed by Michael Mayer and a virtual fresco by Oyoram.

Monsieur Georges Champs Elysees, is another sophisticated five star hotel. Here the goal is to welcome you to your own Parisian pied a terre. The hotel has the feel of a private club residence and elevating the Hausmannian building to a space of modern Parisian glamour. They offer a lovely basement spa complete with steam room and in room yoga classes. My favorite here is The Bar, impeccably designed with an equally impressive cocktail menu.

Located across the river from the Eiffel Tower and the Champs de Mars is the Maison FL. An elegant 4 star hotel with an art deco vibe. The 64 rooms here are all very comfortable, ranging from classic double rooms to suites and an awesome family suite that can comfortably hold up to 6 people. A special feature here, is the availability of day rooms. For those that have a stopover, need a break between meetings or want to work remotely from someplace besides their home, the Maison FL has thought of you.

What I consider the jewel of the Left Bank , L’Hotel, in St. Germain des Pres is the world’s first boutique hotel and famous for being the last home of Oscar Wilde. The hotel is also an example of elegant French design and the perfect choice for those seeing a modern and totally Parisian experience. Built in 1828, the hotel harkens back to another time, while not forgetting the present. In the 1960’s it was “the” place to be seen with guest such as Salvador Dali, Princess Grace, Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor and Jim Morrison. Today the hotel attracts those seeking to an elegant Parisian escape for those in the know.  A highlight here is the underground Hamman pool and spa. Word to the wise. Book your room early and if you’re looking to stay in the Oscar Wilde Suite (well worth it) reserve even earlier.

Perfectly located near the Opera, shopping and within proximity of many of the great sites in the city is the New Hotel Lafayette. The hotel is bright and intimate with a friendly staff. If you’re traveling with children, the hotel has thought of you! They offer triple rooms and suites designed to accommodate families, kids up to 12 are fee and they even offer baby changing mats and baby baths. Quite thoughtful indeed!

Shopping:

Is it too much to say everywhere and anywhere? Putting together a list of favorites was no easy task, but here it is!

Let’s start with something sweet. The oldest patisserie in Paris, happens to be the best. Stohrer was founded in 1730 by the pastry chef to King Louis XV, Nicolas Stohrer, when you arrive, you’re stepping into the original shop and into history. This is where the crème de la crème of Parisian society and everyone else come when they are looking to purchase the best patisseries in the city. You won’t want to miss the famous rum baba (invented here) or a personal favorite, tarte au citron (lemon tart).

Some of the best shopping experiences in Paris can be found in its many passages and at the top of my lest is the Passage du Grand Cerf in the 2^nd arrondissement. One of the oldest passages in the city, it’s also one of the most luxurious.  This glass roof, charming galleries, shops and cafes make this a great stop to shop, stroll and feel that old fashioned Paris vibe.

La Maison du Miel is another great Parisian stop. Specializing in honey, here you’ll find just about every type of honey you can think of including local products and rate honey from around the globe. They also sell items that make great souvenirs including candles, candy and nougat. And make sure to try their special pain d’epice, a sort of gingerbread meets spice cake.

A true hidden gem is L’Artistant Monastique. This shop is part of the Monstere de la Visitation and is unlike any other in Paris. They offer a wide arrange of handmade pot holders, tablecloths and other cloth items as well as jams, cookies, jellies and sweets all made locally or at one of the other 300 monasteries in France. Also check out the basement, often a treasure trove of antiques and rare finds.

On it’s own, without the world class shopping,  La Samaritaine is destination of its own. Opened in 1870 with the current art deco building built in the mid 1920s, in 2021, the building was reopened to the world, in time to celebrate its 151^st anniversary. With hundreds of brand names, local and international, dozens of dining and drinking options, pop up stores, music and art events, a visit to La Samaritaine is a truly Parisian experience. To get the most of your visit, book a guided tour. For around $16 this 90 minute tour brings story of La Samaritaine to life with insight into the culture, architecture and history of the building and its neighborhood.

 For more on Paris, check out our Paris Bliss list.