A Journey through Bavaria’s Heart

Munich

When I made my first visit to Munich a few years back, it was for only one day and it was all work. I had about 3 hours of free time to see whatever I could, and the rest of the time was taken up with meetings. But the amazing thing was that in just a few hours, Munich cast a sort of spell over me, and I was determined to return and with lot more time than just 3 hours. And so, it was that during my most recent trip, I spent 3 full days in and around Munich and I can’t wait to return.

Let’s get the obvious out of the way. Munich, Capital of Bavaria, is a city rich with a blend of history (both good and bad) culture, art, food and of course, a hearty dose of Bavarian hospitality. Nestled along the banks of the River Isar, what makes Munich special is that unlike other cities that are in your face to balance the past and present, Munich has figured out how to perfectly embody both tradition and modernity in equal measure.

Iconic Munich

Like every tourist, I began with the city’s iconic landmarks; the Marienplatz, the city’s central square, the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) and its famous clock tower with glockenspiel, the Frauenkirche (Cathedral of Our Dear Lady) and I even climbed the southern tower, where the views stretched across the city and to alps in the distance. I visited Viktualienmarkt, a bustling food market where I grabbed a baked pretzel – and a beer before strolling through the Hofgarten, a lovely park located in the heart of the city.

Dining & Drinking

The first thing I wanted to do in Munich was to have an authentic Bavarian breakfast, complete with weisswurst, beer and a pretzel. One of my local contacts suggested Zum Franziskaner and what a suggestion! In the heart of the city, inside gives an old world vibe while outside, the terrace is a great place to enjoy food and people watch. Besides their most famous wursts, they pour the coldest glass of Lowenbrau beer in town!

It’s hard to imagine a visit to Munich without stopping at a local beer garden (biergarten). I visited a few and my favorite by far was Augustine Keller. Pouring since 1812, this is a true garden, situated beneath chestnut trees. Beer is poured from freshly tapped wooden barrels and the menu is great for a lite bite or something more substantial.

If you’re looking for a casual stop, check out Fraulein Gruneis. This kiosk (actually a small building) features a new menu daily, including incredible soups, sandwiches, coffee and of course, beer. Located at the tip of the English Garden (Englischer Garten) at Lerchenfeldstrasse, this spot offers great food at even better prices.

Pfiftermuhehleis a truly authentic experience, as it focuses on sustainability and local products that are organically produced. The menu changes from season to season and the creative team here offers a dining experience unlike any other restaurant in the city. They also have a great selection of German and international wines, the perfect way to complement a great meal.  Make sure to book your table in advance.

One of my greatest surprises was coming across Donuts & Candies. After a walk through the English Garden (again), I decided to explore the neighborhood and I hit the sweet tooth jackpot! Homemade donuts, cookies, cakes and muffins (vegan options too!) await you. I chose two, a traditional glazed donut and a slice of “chocolate heaven” cake. All I can say is if you need a sweet, make a visit. And you can get a selection to go!

I do love a good rooftop bar and my choice is the Bayerischer Hof Roof Garden Terrace. Beautifully designed with incredible views of the city, I was happy to sit back and relax in an elegant setting with a glass of champagne to toast the sunset.

Sightseeing

Munich’s iconic landmarks were undeniably captivating and it’s easy to see why they draw so many visitors. While my first visit was rushed, this time I was able to see and experience much more. I decided to knock out the most famous sites first, and then explore the hidden gems of the city.

I began my two days of touring with a visit to the Marienplatz and from there, took a great walk through the English Garden. During the course of my trip I also visited New Town Hall, the amazing Bavarian National Museum and the must see Nymphemburg  Palace. All of these were incredible, but it’s the off the beaten path and lesser known spots I was eager to see.

The first thing I wanted to do was visit Rose Island. I’d read that this was once the private playground of King Maximilian II where he entertained luminaries such as Richard Wagner, Tsarina Alexandrona and Empress Elisabeth of Austria. The park and grounds are beautiful and the villa quite lovely. It was worth the trip and if you visit in spring and summer, you’ll understand why they call it Rose Island.

It’s impossible to ignore Germany and Munich’s past, specifically the horrors of WWII. I purposely wanted to visit the Jewish Museum to see how Munich and the country was addressing the Holocaust and Munich’s Jewish history. The museum was an enlightening and often times emotional experience. The collection of photographs, videos, religious items and commentary was enlightening and reminds all visitors, never again.

On a much lighter note, a friend suggested I visit the Beer and Oktoberfest Museum. I did and it was just what I expected. A fun and even educational museum shedding light on the history of beer making – and beer drinking! A very Bavarian museum.

And speaking of museums, many are free of just 1 euro on Sundays. If you’re like me an enjoy seeing a city via public transport and like discounts, check out Munich Card & Pass which offers amazing discounts and tons of free admissions across the city.

I’m a film lover so I paid a visit to Bavaria Filmstadt. A fully working film studio (just outside the city) tons of German movies and commercials are filmed here and they offer an exceptional guided tour. Kid will love this one too as they offer a special 4D ride that takes you on a virtual tour of the studio grounds.

Sadly, I wasn’t in Munich in December, but I absolutely can’t wait to make a return visit to experience the holiday season at the famous Munich Christmas Market. Taking place the end of November through Christmas Eve (with New Year’s fireworks), this market is considered by Christmas Market aficionados as one of the world’s best.

Where to Stay

I’m a big fan of boutique hotels and Munich has several good ones to choose from but for my money, Unsold’s Factory Hotel is the best. The location is pefect (right at the English Garden) in the quiet Lehel neighborhood, walking distance to tram and subway and thoughtfully designed. With 67 rooms to select from and a lovely lounge, the hotel is a perfect home away from home in the city.

For those seeking luxury, the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski Munchen is at the top of my list. They bill the property as “Royal Bavarian Flair” and they aren’t kidding. The rooms and suites here are breathtaking and I particularly enjoyed a drink at the Jahreszeiten Bar. It has a great European/American bar vibe and even if you’re not staying here, you should pop in for a visit. Add to the accommodation, one of the leading spas in the country and the location in the heart of the most exclusive Maximilianstrasse, it’s luxury found.

Another great hotel is the Sofitel Munich Bayerpost. Built in Munich’s former Royal Post Office, the hotel is a great mix of history, avant-garde architecture and French inspired design making it quite unlike anything else in the city.

I also like Roomers Munich. Modern, elegant, and chic, the design of the public spaces and rooms are outstanding. I’m all for food and Servus Heidi didn’t disappoint. It’s the flip side of the hotel vibe with a mix of traditional and modern touches, but the food is all Bavarian. Don’t miss the potato dumplings! This is one property at the top of my “must stay list.”

Shopping

My goal was to purchase a pair of authentic lederhosen and my concierge directed me to Trachten Rausch. From the moment I entered, I knew this was the real deal. Their selection of lederhosen, each its own work of art was nearly overwhelming but thanks to a wonderful (and patient) tailor, I found the right pair. Women and children don’t despair. They offer a wide range of drindls and children’s clothing as well.

A word of gingerbread and treats awaits at Lebkuchen Schmidt on Westenriederstrasse. Chocolate covered gingerbread, gingerbread snaps, cookies, candies, and a range of specialty items like soups and sauces. What else can we ask for?

If you’re traveling with kids or are looking for a special gift to bring back home, visit Brauseschwein. They offer wonderful traditional toys, games, stuffed animals, and they even have an area featuring sweets and candies.

Luitpoldblock is famous for its dining: cafes, restaurants, and bars. But it also has some of the most upscale shops and boutiques in the city. Housed in an historical building from the early 1800s, if you’re looking for one stop that has it all, this is the place for you.

For the absolute finest German souvenirs, visit Hermann Geschenke. Right in the heart of the city, their commitment to ‘made in Germany” is apparent from the impressive line of products including beer steins, cuckoo clocks, nutcrackers, Hummel statues and much more. .