For most of us, when we think about the Italian countryside, our minds immediately go to the rolling hills of Tuscany.  And there’s plenty of reasons why. From books and movies, photos, music and of course, the art, Tuscany is a part of our collective Italy subconscious. But for me, it’s Tuscany’s neighbor, Umbria that I’d been waiting to explore, and it when I finally did this past Spring, it was more than I had hoped for.

In our other blogs Priya, Tukshad and I break out a city by dining, drinking, sightseeing, shopping and where to stay. Since I visited several villages in Umbria, for this blog, I’m going to focus on each village and the highlights of my experience, none of which could have happened without my dear friend Barbara Pardini who personifies the essence of Italy.

This is going to be a long one! First up, Norcia.

Norcia

I arrived in Rome where I took a car for the three hour drive to Norcia. It was late in the afternoon when I arrived, and the town was quiet. I decided to check into my hotel and then explore.  My hotel choice in Norcia was the Palazzo Seneca and I must congratulate myself for making such a good choice. The hotel is a 16^th century palace that was opened at a hotel in the early 1900s. Walking through its ancient doorway you literally step back in time. The rooms are luxurious and mine had a great terrace with incredible vistas.  After a quick tour of the hotel, it was time to explore.

Back in 2016, a massive 6.6 earthquake hit the region and Norcia was just a few miles from the epicenter, damaging or destroying many of its ancient landmarks. Not to be defeated, the people of Norcia and the local authorities began an aggressive rebuilding campaign and today, while you will see remnants of the quake, what strikes one is how quickly the locals rebuilt (and continue to rebuild) the town. The town square was busy with families enjoying an evening stroll, people eating gelato and the laughter of children. Wonderful. It was someone I met in this square, who suggested I have dinner at Salsiccia Bar Bistro. I enjoyed a great plate of fresh pasta with a glass of wine before calling it a day.

The next morning, I was up early and ready to go! For today, I had planned a truffle hunting and cheesemaking experience. To be honest, I was a bit apprehensive about this, because I’d done similar things, and they weren’t all that great (I think they even planted the truffles for the dogs to find). But not in Norcia. I met our guide Nicola, his two expert dogs, and the rest of a small group and off we went. Luca led as along beautiful paths, explaining the history of the region, the impact weather has on agriculture and truffles and the importance of organic, traditional methods of farming. Along the path, when one least expected it, one or two of the dogs would do a sort of dance, then, nose to the ground, waiting for Luca’s permission, they would dig. And there…fresh from the earth, the black truffle of Norcia. We continued our hike and then, what really appeared to be a mirage, was a perfectly set table in a field and an invitation to lunch. Bottles of wine were opened, fresh bread was handed out, locally sourced salamis and fresh fruit were in abundance but the highlight by far, was the fresh ricotta salata being made right in front of us. No crowds, no tour buses. Just a small group of new friends, enjoying a meal in the hills of Norcia.

Later that night, back in town, Michela, my host at the hotel asked if I wanted to experience something very special. She didn’t have to ask me twice, but when I asked her where we were going, she simply responded “you come with me.” We jumped in her car and in about 15 minutes we arrive at was clearly a church or religious building. I followed Michela as she explained we were visiting the Monastero Di San Benedetto in Monte.  The cloister is home to the “Monks of Norcia” who follow the ancient rules of St. Benedict. I was led inside the church (I later found out it’s from the 16^th century and the only church that survived the earthquake intact) and took my place in a pew. I was just about to ask some questions when I was politely hushed. Then, as if I was in some sort of dream, candles lit, incense burning, the monks entered chanting their evening prayer. I’m not a religious person, but I will never forget the sound of their voices, the looks on their faces as these – mostly young men, seemed transported to another place. When the service was over, it took me a few minutes to collect my thoughts as we left the chapel and stepped outdoors.

Michela had one more surprise up her sleeve. It seems that part of the Rule of St. Benedict is to live by the work of your own hands. And for the monks of Norcia, it’s all about Birra Nursia. Yup, beer!! The monks brew three kinds of beer with all the revenue going back to support the monastery, their work and making sure they have a home for future generations of monks. After a glass of Tripel (an amber beer) and having the opportunity to meet a few of the monks (many from the USA) it was time to end a day that I won’t soon forget.

Montefalco

Leaving Norcia, I headed to Montefalco. I’d read about the San Francesco Museum there and that the town offered great food and wine. Perfect.

To begin with, the museum alone was worth the drive. Dating from the 1300’s, this jewel of a museum brings you up close to works by masters such as Il Perugino and Gozzoli. The museum is a complex featuring a church, archeological displays, an art gallery, remnants of 19^th century wine making tools, and temporary exhibitions. The museum is well located, so I was able to walk around the town, do a little shopping and had a coffee before heading to my next stop and some wine! 

For winetasting, I visited the vineyards of Analdo Capari to try their famous Sagrantino, which is exceptional. The “cantina” is surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills and my tour guide provided a well rounded tour that was a perfect blend of history, the wine making process and of course, winetasting with local cheeses and produce.  After a great visit (and a purchase of several bottles) I was off to my hotel and a much deserved rest.

Usually when I hear the word “resort” I immediately head in the opposite direction. But I had done my research, called some local contacts and Borgobrufa Spa Resort seemed to offer everything I was looking for; adults only, a spa, focus on wellness and , of course, great food and wine.  The drive up to the resort washed away any concerns I had and I knew this was going to be a great stay. I enjoyed everything. The heated pool, the spa (an incredible massage followed by a facial called “Energy Man” I’m still not sure what it was, but I never looked or felt better!

For my first night, I dined at the Michelin, Quattro Sensi. The menu is crafted around local, seasonal food which is always the best way to dine. My dinner was fresh (of course) gnocchi with cabbage and local cheese. Hands down the best gnocchi ever. For the second evening, I was fortunate to book a reservation at Elementi, the resort’s fine dining, Michelin award wining restaurant. I could go through the menu, tell you how incredible, thoughtful, and creative the chef is, but words won’t do the experience justice. The only way to get even a glimpse into this experience is to watch this video and book a table well in advance.

Orvieto

I decided to head out to Orvieto for a few hours and then return to Borgobrufa to relax.

The main reason for Orvieto was that I wanted to see the Pozzo di San Patrizio (the Well of St. Patrick). A history geek, I already had some knowledge that this well, was much more than just a water source. It was ordered by Pope Clement VII in 1527, during the Sack of Rome. The pope and his court fled to Orvieto and fearing a siege, and no water, he commissioned Antonio da Sangallo the younger to create what many historians and architects consider a masterpiece of Renaissance engineering. You descend the well via one of two spiral staircases, leading you down over 175 feet. The feeling is quite unique as you look up to the sky but go lower to the water source. It takes a bit of walking and stair climbing to get the full experience, so wear comfortable, nonslip shoes (now I know better!) and take your time. Then it was back to enjoy the awesome environment of the hotel.

Perugia and Assisi

The next day was going to be a full day of touring, before heading to my hotel in Gubbio for the next two days.

I started with Perugia. I hired a local guide for a walking tour of the city and it’s quite interesting. The largest city in Umbria, it dates to the Etruscans but has a vibrant, young vibe, largely due to the University for Foreigners, brining young people from around the globe to Umbria.  My tour started, aptly enough at the Etruscan Gate and proceeded to many of the most beautiful and important spots in the city including the

Piazza Italia (and lots of other piazzas, one more beautiful than the next), the 14^th century Cathedral, Fontana Maggiore and the stunning view from Porta Sole. Two highlights were spending time at the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, featuring works from the 14^th through 19^th centuries (when I was there, they had a special exhibit featuring local Umbrian artists) and strolling, seemingly endlessly, through the old historic city center with its maze of small alleyways and cobblestoned streets.  For a city guy like me, Perugia offered a jolt of energy and it’s a place I will visit again. After my tour, I was off to meet a friend for lunch at the historic hotel and restaurant, Posta Donini.

Set among botanical gardens, the hotel and restaurant are housed in a 15^th century villa and I was lucky enough to get a tour before lunch. Each of the rooms are mini works of art with some containing works of art by Appiani and other 17^th and 18^th century masters. The gardens are masterfully designed and even have the 1850 mausoleum (it’s not morbid!) of a Donini ancestor, Laura. As if the setting wasn’t perfect enough, lunch was equally spectacular. My choice was fresh umbricelli pasta with local truffles and an amazing glass of Umbria Rosso. And to wrap things up, for dessert, cappuccino tiramisu and off to Assisi.

Assisi

Like most people, I know Assisi as the town of St. Francis, the saint that gave up his family fortune to live in poverty. Also, the saint often pictured surrounded by animals due to his love of all of God’s creatures.

I decided to start my time in Assisi, this time without a guide, at the ancient Roman temple of Minerva, now the Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva. The Roman temple was built in the 1^st century and in 1539 converted to a Catholic church. It’s a unique place to visit and has a certain feel, since it’s been used for worship for over 2,000 years.

The Basilica of St. Francis is an awe-inspiring building and regardless of your convictions, if you’re in close by, you need to visit. The basilica is a complex of buildings that includes a lower church dating from the early 13^th century and containing the remains of the saint. It also features incredible frescos, crypts, and chapels.

While the Lower Church may feel dark and ancient, the Upper Church opens to the sky. For art lovers, pay special attention to the nave, where some art experts claim are among the finest frescoes in the world. It’s also worth visiting the Museum of the Treasury, that houses a collection of sacred art and religious items that relate to the history of St. Francis and the basilica.

After a very full day of touring, it was time to head to my hotel in Gubbio.

Gubbio

While I knew a bit about Assist, Norcia and the other towns on my “tour” I really had no idea what to expect from Gubbio and I purposely did not research anything, wanting to have a fully authentic first experience.

I arrived to my hotel, the Park hotel Ai Cappuccini in the early evening. I was shown to my room and decided to explore. I went out to the patio and stopped in my tracks. The sun was setting and the view spectacular. I took a seat in a chaise lounge by the pool and as the sun went down, the towns and villages of Umbria came to life, with their lights twinkling like stars. Since I had a huge lunch, I forced myself to have another glass of wine and light snack at the “Wedding Bar” named after the massive piece of art in the bar, “The Emperor’s Wedding” by Sartorio.

I had booked a walking tour of the city for the next morning and I’m glad I did. Gubbio has an incredible and exciting history, and I would have missed out on the importance of what I was seeing without a local expert. A big stroke of luck had me in town during the preparations for the annua “Festa dei Ceri” so the town was buzzing with activities. The festival brings more than 100,000 people to witness three teams racing while carrying 13’ wooden “candles and while I couldn’t see the race, just being there while the town was getting ready was thrilling.

My guide led me through Gubbio, which is charming and unlike other towns in Italy, much less crowded. Locals sat in the doorways, I shopped, stopped for an espresso with whipped cream and had a perfectly relaxing morning. That was until my guide, Barbara, took me to be certified as “mad!”   In the center of a small square that was once the center of the ancient town is the Fontana Dei Matti (the fountain of madmen). Here tradition says if you run around the fountain three times, accompanied, or witnessed by a local, then splashed/baptized with the fountain’s water, you are presented with an official certification stating you are both mad and an honorary citizen of Gubbio. Sure, it’s a bit gimmicky but it was a blast. Sometimes you must let go and have fun!

After my run around the fountain, I noticed a small shop that looked quite interesting, so I stepped inside “Gypsea.” And boy I am glad I did. This bottega (workshop) is dedicated to the craft of renaissance stucco and they are committed to preserving the legacy for future generations. I met the owner, Patrizia, who generously shared her process of creation, and I was thrilled to buy a small piece to bring home. This is a must visit for anyone going to Umbria.  

By the late afternoon, I was back at the hotel and ready to check out the spa. I treated myself to a wonderful aromatherapy massage and a visit to the sauna. Relaxed and refreshed, I headed to the outdoor terrace to enjoy a light dinner before calling it a night. The next day it was back to Rome for my flight home.

For anyone looking to experience Italy, slowly, without the big crowds and endless tour buses that often plague other regions, Umbria, especially in spring and autumn, is the place for you.