Beach, Feast, Art’s Release…

Nice & Cannes

The South of France and the French Riviera conjure up images of sunshine, beachside cafes, chic women, charming villages, and beautiful vistas. All true. In future posts we’ll look at some of those villages, but for now, let’s focus on two of our favorites, Nice and Cannes. 

It’s interesting that for many years, both Nice and Cannes suffered from a one note and quite limited reputation. Nice, was considered good enough for a day trip, maybe an overnight and a meal, but not more than that. And Cannes, well, it’s always been about the film festival. But the truth is that both places are incredible destinations worthy of their own full experience.

Having not been for a number of years, I decided to make a mini-trip to Nice and Cannes, 3 nights in each place. And let me upfront by saying I was one of those Nice one nighters and Cannes only during the festival kind of travelers.  My trip transformed and enlightened me. Nice is a city worthy of a week long visit and Cannes, especially beyond La Croisette, is a wonderful town with lots to discover.

Nice:

Upon arriving to Nice, the first thing that struck me was the restored beauty of the train station. Built in the 1860’s the station has undergone lots of restoration and is quite astonishing. From the station, I took a taxi to my hotel and then it was time to explore.

Dining and Drinking:

A friend told me to visit Jeannot one of the most famous bakeries in Nice. I had a strong café and what might just be the best raspberry tart I’ve ever tasted. They also bake a wide range of breads and offer sandwiches and salads, making it a great place for a tasty break.

For a delicious home style meal, La Rossettisserie is my top choice. Located in the heart of the old city, traditional cuisine is the star here. Rich flavors, a great mix of meat and fish (they do offer a vegetarian platter) a well chosen wine list and a wow dessert, fromage blanc make for a perfect meal at great prices.

Of course, there are mussels and then there are the famous Nice moules. For me, the best is the most simple and delicious. And that can be found at Le Rocher Chez Mina  Clean, fresh, simple and affordable, there’s no reason to pay double or triple the price when when La Rocher Chez Mina serves the best mussels (and shrimp) in town.

Sightseeing:

There’s something quite unique and beautiful about the cultural history of Nice. All French – but quite Italian. The city has lots to see and do, but I’m going to focus on a few hidden gems most visitors never see: 

1. Rita Church/Church of the Annunciation: Don’t let the boring exterior fool you! Right in the heart of the Old Town stands this stunning baroque church built in the 1600’s (on the site of a church from 1000’s) resplendent with frescos, statues and other works of religious art.
2. Chateau de Bellet: A true hidden gem, the chateau sits in the north part of Nice and produces its own wine. Since 1777, the chateau has been in the same family and just 20 minutes from the city center, you can explore the beautiful grounds, visit the chapel and of course, enjoy winetasting.
3. Opera Nice Cote d’Azur: Yes! Nice has its own opera house – and it’s a beauty. Built in 1828, the house is a cultural center of the city and home to opera (of course!), ballet and classical concerts. They offer wonderful tours, but a word to the wise – book your spot early.

Where to Stay: 

I had always wanted to stay at La Peoruse and after a recent renovation, I decided now was the time. Located at the end of the Promenade des Anglais, the hotel is walking distance to many of the most famous sites in town, but because of its special location it feels removed from the hustle and bustle. With 53 rooms and suites, restaurant, bar, and swimming pool, La Perouse is a true, luxury boutique hotel.

I usually hesitate to recommend bed and breakfast properties, simply because with many, there’s no structured quality control.  One exception is the lovely Casa Musa. Started by an art collector and an architect, this place feels as if you’ve been invited to a private home, and you have. The rooms are lovely, open and well appointed and their organic garden helps provide ingredients for a delicious breakfast.  Located in the city center, just minutes from the beach, shopping and dining, if you’re looking to connect with the authentic version of Nice, this is for you.

If you’re looking for a city center hotel that won’t break the bank, check out the newly updated Hotel Apollinaire Nice. It’s situated right in the center of town, giving you easy access to sightseeing, the beach and shops. 95 very comfortable rooms, a bar, patio and small but adequate well being area, makes this a great choice. And, they’re pet friendly!

Shopping:

One of the greatest pleasures of Nice, is strolling one, or several of their famous markets and there’s a market for everyone; a flower markets, fish, fruit and veggie markets, antique and flea markets, an arts & crafts market, used book market and even an antique postcard market. Best bet is to check with your hotel concierge before heading out to verify which days of the week your market of choice is open. In addition to these wonderful experiences, here are a few more not to miss:

1. Molinard: Perfume makers since 1849, the Nice store is a treasure trove of scents, with something for nearly everyone. Perfumes, soaps, candles and their famous carrying pouches. If you can’t make it to their main location in Grasse, make sure to visit here.
2. Alziari: Since 1938, Nicolas Alziari and now his family, have been making some of the most desired olive products in the world. Olive oils, vinegars, beauty products and home goods can all be found in this charming shop. If you’re looking for the perfect Nice souvenir, you’ll find it here.
3. Maison Auer: Since the 1800’s Maison Auer has been home to the finest sugared fruits, handmade chocolates and glazed chestnuts (marron glaces) to be found anywhere in France. The shop itself is a work of art and worthy of a visit, but for chocolate and sweet lovers, this is an absolute must.

Cannes:

For me, it’s the Cannes beyond the croisette that’s most interesting. Sure, the famous designer boutiques and five star hotels and jewelry stores are amazing, but just a block or two behind the famous street is another city waiting to be discovered.

Dining and Drinking:

If there’s one place in Cannes, I always make sure to visit, it’s La Californie . Sitting at the end of the croisette, just opposite the Palais des Festivals, the large outdoor terrace is the ideal place for any meal. I like to arrive during the golden hour, enjoy a Campari spritz and watch the sunset. I’ve tried just about everything on their menu, but my go to is a great bottle of red wine and a plate of truffle ravioli. If you like a great meal and to people watch, make a reservation here.

For wonderful, traditional French cooking, Chez Vincent et Nicolas is my go to. I’m a big fam of the warm goat cheese on fresh baked country bread, the onion soup and their roasted chicken filet. They also have a great offering of pasta, risotto and seafood.

Up in the Le Suquet neighborhood (the oldest in Cannes) is Le Marais , one of the finest restaurants in the city. For me, seafood is the star here. They make a great Nordic plate with salmon and an incredible John Dory. My dessert was crème brulee, which was out of this world. This restaurant is popular with foodies, so reserve your table in advance.

Sightseeing: 

At the very top of my list is visiting The Lerins Islands, Saint Honorat and Saint Marguerite. A quick boat ride from Cannes, each island offers its own, unique reasons for visiting. Saint Marguerite is famous as the legendary home to The Man in the Iron Mask. You can explore the Fort Royal where he was held and then go on to enjoy the island and it’s vast opportunities for hiking, swimming, and their incredible underwater eco-museum. Saint Honorat,  is home to a beautiful monastery dating from 1073 which houses seven chapels and The Abbey of Lerins. The island is also home to its own vineyards, where the monks bottle their own wine and liqueurs. They also produce and sell wonderful olive oil and lavender sachets. Check out their “wine days” where wine and food tasting is the focus on this beautiful island.

To maximize what you see in Cannes, try a ride on the Petit Train. They offer a few tours; one focused on history, one on the Croisette and the Big Tour, which is a perfect balance of history and sightseeing. Trains depart from 10AM until 11PM and tours are available in many languages. I’ve done this trip twice and enjoyed it both times.

Sitting high above the city is the castle fortress, now the Musee de la Castre. Walking up the 109 steps to the castle is a great way to see out over Cannes and the coast and at the top, you can enjoy a break on one of the terraces before checking out the museum.

Where to Stay:

Cannes is synonymous with luxury and may have more luxury hotels per block than just about anyplace else in France. There’s the Carlton, the Barriere Le Majestic, the JW Marriott and my personal favorite, Hotel Martinez.

The Hotel Martinez Cannes, is pure art deco luxury. The legendary hotel leads the pack when it comes to maintaining the highest standards of service and quality. The new L’ Oasis offers a spa, swimming pool and bar all set in a luxurious garden. The hotel is also famous for their famous beach club, where award winning Chef Jean Imbert has launched a new menu, perfectly complimenting the Mediterranean vibe. You’ve probably seen pictures of the hotel and its famous beach sunbeds, so word to the wise. If you’re visiting during the summer, reserve your bed well in advance.

If you’re looking for the Cannes vibe, but without the price tag of the 5 star palaces, take a look at Le Gray D’Albion. This 4 star sister to the Majestic, it’s just 2 blocks from the beach and offers access to many of the services at the Majestic.

I’ve also enjoyed a stay at Hotel Montaigne and Spa, a 5-10 minute walk from the croisette. What I really like about this hotel is that it’s in a real neighborhood of Cannes.  When you leave the fussy famous area, a simple walk brings you into a thriving area, where the locals live and work. During my visit, I had a very spacious room and thoroughly enjoyed the Hamman and a great massage. And for those looking to maximize their spend, you’ll be happy with this choice.

Shopping:

If you’re planning a trip to Cannes, you already know that the most luxurious brands in the world have stores and boutiques here. Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Chopard, Prada, Gucci, YSL, Hermes and almost every other have space here. But that’s not what interests me. I prefer walking a few blocks off the croisette to rue d’Antibes, where you can find some wonderful surprises. And one block behind rue d’Antbes  is rue Meynadier, where locals shop.

One of the great French perfume brands, Fragonard offers a wide array of fragrances and skin care products that you won’t find outside of France. Men, women, and children will find something here. Among my favorites is Mademoiselle Amour, a first perfume set for young girls (my nieces loved it!), Eau Du Seducteur – an amazing men’s fragrance and a diffuser set, Reve de Paris, that makes a great souvenir.

 Famous patisserie Lenotre Paris has a shop here and while other names may be more familiar, Lenotre may be the best. Everything created here is done with attention to detail, only using the finest ingredients. And best of all, they package gift boxes, making it easy to bring home something sweet and special.