discover greece like never before

A Greek Odyssey Aboard Running On Waves Sailing Yacht  

Over the years I’ve been fortunate enough to have visited Greece, literally more times than I can count. And like most travelers who feel they really know a destination, I was sure I knew the best way to experience “the real Greece” and avoid the tourists. Boy, was I wrong. 

To start with, I know enough to avoid the traps; book early, travel in the late spring/early summer, spend more than one night in Athens, fly rather than ferry between the islands and most of all, unless it’s a first visit, avoid Mykonos and Santorini in July and August.  Add to that my accumulated first hand experience on where to stay, eat drink and shop for truly local experiences, so far, so good. 

All of this came in quite handy, or so I thought, when a colleague asked me to sail the coast of the Peloponnesus aboard a small, luxury motor yacht, Running on Waves. I was certain I would politely decline. But,  the more I thought about it, the more curious I became about what the experience would be like. After all, Greek history and the sea go hand in hand and being a wanna be historian, I thought this might be my chance to see Greece as the ancients did. No big cruise ship with endless floors and a disco, but a small, 18 cabin sailing yacht. So, I decided to set sail!

Before the cruise I spent a few days at my favorite hotel, The Electra Palace located in the heart of Plaka. I’ve been visiting their for more years than I care to remember and it’s always the perfect start to any visit. I boarded the ship in Piraeus, the ancient port of Athens and set sail into a glorious sunset. Being a small ship, it took no time to meet my fellow travelers and over cocktails, we shared what we hoped the week would bring.

The itinerary was going to be great: Monemvasia, Pylos, Katakolo, Kefalonia, Itea, sailing through the Corinth Canal to Aegina and returning to Athens. But before we called on our first port, it was time to explore the ship. 

The first thing that hit me, was the ship’s cleanliness. It was spotless (and I looked everywhere!). From the teak decks to the shining railings, from the chaise cushions to the dining room, everything was impeccable. My cabin was pretty large for a sailing yacht, with a bathroom big enough for a 6’1” guy, comfortable bed, closet and enough room not to feel cramped.

Another thing that struck me from the moment I stepped onboard, was the crew. At first I thought, “sure, this is the start of the week, this level of politeness and attention can’t last”. Wrong. Until the moment I stepped off the ship at the end of the cruise, Robert (the Hotel Director) and his team seemed somehow, stealth in their ability to be everywhere, but never be in your face. And with a quick press of a special blue button, no matter where you are on the ship, one of the crew appears, ready to help – and bring you a drink!  

The sailing also had another great enhancement. This was a yoga cruise! I was a bit apprehensive to participate, but I pushed myself. I mean, yoga at 7AM? Yup. And it was wonderful. The yoga instructor was Nair from The Yoga Club Barcelona. Young, bright and dynamic, somehow Nair was able to provide instruction to a group of people ranging in age – and ability. By day 3, we were all looking forward to beginning our day with Nair and no kidding, by the end of the week, we could actually see and feel our progression, all thanks to a great instruction.

Let’s get into the onboard experience. After the ports of call, the first thing many people want to know is “how was the food”? My response? Plentiful and fresh. Each meal was laid like a great buffet for a king. I started each day with the “Early Risers Coffee”. Held on deck, coffee, tea, cookies and fruit are served as you pull into port and watch the sunrise. Breakfast offered fruit, eggs, breads, jams, nuts and berries and of course, Greek yogurt and honey. Lunch (although I must confess, I stayed off the ship all but one day) included burgers, salad, grilled chicken and more fruit and sweets. Each night, dinner was a feast. Everything seemed on offer. Salmon, tuna, shrimp, chicken, beef, pasta, a cheese board, even fresh hummus. A foodie heaven.

Also, important (for some of us at least) is the bar. The ship offers a wonderful selection of local and international red and white wines, several types of champagne, mixed cocktails and mocktails. On the first day one my fellow travelers asked for a specific Greek beer, Fix. They didn’t have it but offered another local brand. By the next day, she was informed Fix had been brought on board…enough for the week! At the end of my day, I like to kick back with a snifter (sounding very posh) of Metaxa Greek brandy. The ship had their 7 star but that didn’t stop them from going out and getting a bottle of a special reserve to enhance my journey.

For me, the ports of call were the most important part of the cruise and they didn’t disappoint. In Monemvasia, I walked the ancient town and explored the castle and small museum. At Pylos, it was the Archeological Museum of Pylos and a hike up to Kalmaris Waterfall. Next up was Katakolo. There are many things to do here, but without question a visit to Ancient Olympia, the site of the first Olympic Games is a must. It’s a breathtaking moment to stand on the spot where it all began and explore the ruins and wonderful museum. Later in the afternoon, a few of us wanted to chill at a beach club before heading back to the ship. We made our way to The Vriniotis Hotel on Agios Andreas. With awesome views and a great beach club, it was the perfect place to unwind after a morning of sightseeing.

The next port of call was Kefalonia. I don’t think there are words in the English language to properly describe the awesome beauty of this island. Home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, surrounded by stunning green landscapes, this is an island to return to over and over again. We then sailed to Itea. From here, I was able to finally visit one of my bucket list items, Ancient Delphi. Once center of the entire ancient world, you drive up into the mountains and then, stunningly, there is Delphi. The ruins and the museum are incredible and a hike to the amphitheater at the highest point was a highlight for me.  

Departing Itea, we had a once in a lifetime experience. For the first time in several years, we were on the first sailing of Running on Waves to pass through the Corinth Canal. Sure, it’s an engineering marvel, but nothing quite prepared me for the impact and beauty of it all. For the first time, our the entire group was silent, with the only sounds an occasional “wow” and “oh my God”. Last up was charming Aegina. I had been here before and like it very much. For my fellow travelers, it was the perfect spot do some last minute shopping and pick up as many bags of the island most famous export, pistachios.

On the last day I woke up even earlier, while it was still dark. I took a coffee to the sundeck and watched the sunrise, taking me from the dark of night into the light of day. It was the perfect ending to an incredible journey.